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[日蝕內裝] DSM-二代中控及儀表板全拆除教學

原文網址:2g Dash Removal Instructions

原文:
Well a few days I was trying to do some research on how to remove the dash out of my 2g. I never really found a good guide and the one I did find was for a 1g.

I'm currently doing this all my memory. Over all, this will be straight forward and easy to follow. The dash removal isn't all too hard to do and for your first time it may take you a few hours to pull out if done by yourself. My first removal was around 2-4 hours. My second one went down to 30-40 minutes.



(Sorry for the lack of pictures, these are the only ones I have)

Tools Needed:
Philips Screw Driver P2 (Magnetized is much better)
10mm Socket and Extensions. Some may find a use for a swivel I however did not need one.
Cutting Pliers for any zip ties you or a previous owner may have put in.
Small Flat Head Screw Driver (used to pull off plastic caps)
Flexible Magnetic Pickup

Pieces to Remove:
Center Console
Radio
Glove Box
Passenger Airbag
Driver side Under Dash Trim
Gauge Cluster
Cruise Control
Center Vents
Dashboard

Also misc. pieces attached


Center Console

To start (if you have power seats) is to move the driver seat forward and unscrew the driver side of the center console (CC from now on). Then move seat back as far as it will go.

Next disconnect the battery by removing the wires at the positive (+ [red]) terminal. This is done not only because you will be working with electrical systems but if you have a passenger air bag, you want to make sure the charge is completely drained.

If you want to be safe, wait for an hour or 2 before disconnecting airbag later on in this guide.
I haven't had issues any of the times I pulled airbag by the time I got to it.

Now we can start removing things.

We already removed 1 screw from the CC which was towards the rear and most likely hidden by the seat depending on how long your legs are. On the opposite side (passenger side) there is an identical screw which you will want to remove.

Put both screw you have acquired somewhere safe and easy to remember where they are from. I personally put all of the CC screws into the cup holder.

Next you will want to remove the cup holder. The easiest way to do it is open the ash tray and cup holder so you can grab the whole unit by the center section. All you are going to do is pull it up and it may take a little force. There are 4 snap in locks holding it in.

Under the cup holder there are 3 things to remove. 2 screws which are holding the CC in place on the body and the ash tray light which is to the upper left of the hole you created. Remove it by twisting the connector.

Remove shift knob (manual)
Automatic (I'll assume you still need to remove your shifter but I have not worked on an auto CC)

Next you want to remove the radio/AC bezel plate. It will pop right out when you grab it from the right spot.

We now have 2 more screws to remove from the CC that were behind the bezel plate. Remove them and set aside (you should now have 6 screws in your cup holder assuming you had all 6 to begin with)

Now we can begin to remove the CC by lifting the rear up while pulling away. This is just to allow you to get the front arms out and un-pinched from the dash. Don't forget to pull the shifter boot up and over the shifter. Once those arms are free you will need to disconnect the cigarette lighter. There are 2 plugs and a light. Twist the light to remove and the 2 plugs (white plug and a black plug) both has a small push lock on them. Just press the tab and they will come out.


No need to mark which one goes where as the small plug will only attach onto the small connector.

You will also want to remove the side panels as well. There are 2 screws on each panel. Once screw is located behind a cap towards the middle of the panel and the second one is located towards the fire wall. Remove both screws (if you still have them) and pull out the panel. Do this for both sides.

Radio

**Yours may be different**

There are 4 screws holding the radio to the chassis. 2 located on both sides.

Remove the screws and you can pull the radio out. Detach any connectors going to the radio and remove.

Also now is a good time to remove the 4 screws that are attached to the HVAC controls.

3 of the 4 screws. You can also see on the left side of the picture the rusty looking metal. The hole on the top left of that is one of the two screw holes holding the radio to the chassis.



Glove Box

The glove box isn't too hard to remove, it's just the install that's more of a pain than anything.

First you'll want to remove a piece of trim located to the right of the glove box next to the door. It'll have a speaker grill looking cut out on it. There is 1 bolt and 1 screw. Remove both and set aside. Again, I would put the bolt and screw in the trim piece to keep it all together.

Holding the glove box on are 2 bolts and 2 screw. One of each on both sides. You'll need to remove all 4 and the glove box will be able to drop down. It will be connected to a brass colored piece of metal. Once it's down you will see a wire for the light. You need to disconnect it and here is a use for the screw driver as fingers wont work. Press in the receded tab and push at the same time. It may take a few tries but it will disconnect.



Set aside the glove box and bolts.

Air Bag

For those of you concerned about it blowing out when you disconnect it, you can come back to this later. I haven't had issues however, just a warning.

To remove you'll need to look under the dash where the glove box was. I had to remove 2 screws and I believe 2 bolts as well. They are the ones closest to the seat when looking up there. Once you remove those bolts and screws it will be able to be lifted out of it compartment.


One of the bolts. On the far right you can see another bolt, that will be removed later to lift the dashboard.



Before it comes out you will need to disconnect it's wiring harness. It's wire has a yellow shield around it so it's easy to find. If you look above where the radio sits on the passenger side (behind where the panel was) you will see the yellow wire shield from the airbag. There is a red connector which is different than most connectors.

You will need to pull up on the red lever which locks the plug in place and then press the tab on the connector itself and pull it out.

Remove air bag.

Driver Side Under Dash Trim

This trim piece is located under the steering wheel and extends from the the CC to the door. The hood release is also attached to this piece.

There are 4 bolts to remove. 2 are up front and are behind caps (use small flat head to pop out caps). The other 2 are on the underside; one towards the door and the other by the CC.




When all 4 bolts are removed you can pull the trim piece down. There is one snap lock on the door side to keep it in place.

You have 2 choices. You can either disconnect the hood release cable from the release mechanics or keep the whole trim piece on the floor and in your way.

I opted to remove it both time.

To remove, lift up the release and you will see 2 screws. Remove the screws to the mechanism is free of the trim. It is now easier to pop the line from it's holder on the mechanism and then remove the braided line from the latch. On the latch side it's set up just like the throttle cable so you will push the cylinder through the hole while having the braided line lined up with the cut out towards the top of the latch so it can be removed/installed.

Set aside all pieces

Gauge Cluster

Start by removing the bezel surrounding the cluster. It is held on by 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on bottom.

With that out of the way you can now get to the bolts holding the cluster on. There are 4 total, 2 up to and 2 on bottom.


To remove the cluster just pull it straight out and then you'll need to rotate it of the dash. You'll understand what I mean when you get to this point.

Cruise Control

Use a the small screw driver and slowly pry out at the edges of the cruise control bezel located on the face of the dash. It just pops in and out. There are 3 connectors located on the back. Remove all 3 and pull cruise control unit out.



Last thing that helps to get removed is the top piece of the steering column bezel. There are 3 screws on the underside. We are just going to focus on one which is on the left side of the wheel and closest to the dash. Remove that screw and the top bezel piece will come off.


Now that we have all the pieces removed we can start unbolting and disconnecting specific connections that would otherwise prevent up from removing the dash.

Center Vents

The center vents
DO NOT COME OUT
I assumed they did my first time and it broke the vent tube. The unit is screwed in on the back side and I'm unaware of how to properly remove the bezel for an aftermarket gauge holder. They do not need to be removed to remove the dashboard.

Dashboard

We will start by pulling out the tweeters located on the front of the dash by taking the small screw driver and prying up between the dash and tweeter. It will pop right up. There are 2 wires going to each tweeter. Behind each tweeter there is a bolt that has to be removed. This is where some people might find a swivel fitting useful.



Remove each bolt and if you happen to drop the bolt while removing it you can either use the magnetic pick up and retrieve it or get it after the dash is removed. It's best to try and get it now so you don't forget later on.

Be sure to know what bolt or screw is going where with your preferred note keeping.

Next bolts to remove will be where the gauge cluster was sitting. There are 2 bolts located towards the bottom that were previously covered up by the cluster. Remove bolts and set aside.



The next 2 will be by where the radio was sitting. On each side you will see a bolt holding the lower portion of the dash to the chassis. It was covered up by the side panels previously. Remove the single bolt from each side.

This one is on the driver side.



Now we are going to the passenger side.

There are 2 bolts to remove over here. Both were covered by the glove box and attach the dash board to the chassis. They are both straight on views of the bolt. One on the left and one on the right.

With those last 2 bolts removed the dash is mainly free to come out. We still have some connectors to remove however.

The first 2 are going to be accessed from the passenger side.

First connector is going to be the rear wiper switch and you'll need to get your hand up in there to disconnect it. You can opt to disconnect it later when the dash is coming out.

Next connector is actually a braided line for a vent switch. It goes from the selector wheel that shows a person sitting down and there are 2 pictures. The one shows a blue box on the top half and the other picture shows a white box on the top half. The line attaches to the HVAC vents attached to the car. It will slide right off from the plastic connector on the car mounted side.

Almost done.

There are 2 connectors behind where the radio sat in a row of 4 that need to be removed. The 2 are the 2 furthest to the driver side and are a long white connector and a long black connector. Disconnect them both.

The 2 connectors are in the back and to the left of the picture. Excuse the mess and the wires were properly cleaned up before re installation.



The last 3 connectors are accessed from the driver side where the lower trim was mounted. 2 will be located through an access hole that is in the dash and both connectors have a foam wrap on them.

The last connector is located above the fuse box and is attached to a panel. This is another connector with the same style as the 2 that were unplugged from behind the radio. It's a long black plug and is located to the top right of the unit. If you have trouble getting to it, you can pull the dash out some to get more room and to help isolate the plug itself.

With all the plugs and bolts removed you can now remove the dashboard.

Start by pulling it towards you as if you were sitting down to pull it out from its seat. When it's pulled out you need to lift it up.

This whole process is much easier with 2 people but can be done with 1. You will be removing it from the passenger side. Pulling and turning will be required and constant checks to make sure a piece of plastic or a wire harness isn't getting caught on something. In the middle of the dashboard up against the window there is a male plastic protrusion that locks into the dashboard. Be sure you pull out far enough to get that disconnected. Its to help align the dashboard and give support in the center.

When you manage to get the dash board out give yourself a big thumbs up and acknowledgment that you removed the one piece of interior most people don't want to touch.

Removal is the opposite of the install. You did keep track of where bolts and screws go and didn't just throw them around?

Be sure to plug all connectors back up and get everything bolted properly. Dealing with the glove box can be tricky as the metal rod that is attached to the glove box goes in between the plastic and the metal chassis tab on both sides.

Be sure to have the airbag connected before you connect the battery. I'm not sure if it's a good thing to plug the airbag in after you connected the battery or not.

Double check the gauge cluster works before fully bolting it in and that you have power to everything.

Did you remember to plug in the rear wiper and attach the vent switch cable?

Check that everything else works as well.


Removed dash pictures






Thanks for reading!

Scott

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